The Rise of a Snack Sensation
In the past week, a matter reached the highest level possible in Switzerland. A Federal Councillor, Albert Rösti, took it upon himself to address the issue publicly on Bundesplatz, without a PR entourage. This all started with a question posed by a young influencer named “Kaufmann” that got the whole country talking: “Why are Döner prices so high?” While Rösti may not have been the most appropriate person to answer this, given his role as a Federal Councillor, he took it upon himself due to his popularity among social media-savvy youth. Whenever product prices increased, “Kaufmann” would challenge the authorities in his videos, sparking a trend that gained momentum with hundreds joining in.
Rösti, in a composed manner, explained that the high prices were due to the quality of meat used in Swiss Döners and expressed his intentions to address the issue by reducing electricity costs. However, this solution would take time to implement. Nonetheless, “Kaufmann” was satisfied with the response and confidently declared to his audience, “You heard it: Mr. Rösti is on it.”
“Dönerflation”
The “Blick” newspaper soon after headlined, “Döner Frustration! Now, the youth are rebelling.” This raised the question, “Should the government intervene?”
Creating a National Dish
Despite the escalating prices, the Döner’s popularity continues to soar. It has become a staple and a national dish that defies current trends. Zeynel Demir, known as the Swiss “Döner King,” built a million-dollar empire with his “Royal Döner” brand, found in numerous eateries across Switzerland, including Coop. The ubiquity of Döner is evident even in upscale dining, with the “Gault Millau” magazine naming Zurich’s best Döner Kebabs, some priced at nearly 100 Swiss Francs.
However, the prominence of Döner also exposes its vulnerabilities, as seen in cases like the Möhlin Döner outbreak where 60 people fell ill, prompting national coverage and even comedic commentary. Despite such incidents, Döner remains a cherished part of Swiss cuisine.
Swissness for Kebab
The enduring popularity of Döner could be attributed to its producers symbolizing successful integration. Ali Ayverdi, a prominent Döner entrepreneur, focuses on Swiss meat and incorporates Swiss elements like cheese and eggs into his products, appealing to a sense of Swiss identity and quality.
These efforts resonate in a country experiencing significant population growth, where the Döner serves as a unifying force between native and immigrant cultures, fostering trust and acceptance among Swiss consumers.
The Döner Debate Beyond Borders
Originating in Germany, the Döner debate over rising prices sparked similar discussions across Europe. In Switzerland, Rösti embraced the trend, recognizing its value in engaging young citizens in politics. The Swiss approach to addressing such issues reflects a pragmatic and straightforward manner, resonating with both Rösti and the Döner itself.
FAQs
- Why are Döner prices rising in Switzerland?
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- How are Swiss entrepreneurs incorporating Swissness into Döner production?
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- How has the Döner industry evolved in Switzerland over the years?